Barbacoa vs Birria: The Ultimate Guide
Mexico City is packed with food stalls serving “barbacoa” and “birria.” I’ve been here for months and, to be honest, I hadn’t quite understood the differences between them until last week. They’re both shredded meat and are quite fatty, delicious when served in freshly made tortillas.
The differences begin in the flavor and soups or broths they come with. However, I wasn’t about to let myself keep living in ignorance regarding both dishes for another six months. The easiest solution was to call a Mexican friend of mine, who also happens to be a chef, and get her to clarify what they are and what they’re not once and for all.
After two hours on the phone going back and forth about birria and barbacoa, she decided to take me on an impromptu tour of her kitchen, some markets, and restaurants, so I could experience it all up-close.
About 40 minutes later, I was biting into some tacos while she explained everything. It finally made some sense. For your sake, I’ve summarized everything she taught me into this ultimate barbacoa and birria guide.
In a Nutshell
With all the differences laid out before you, you can finally dig in while being able to say you properly understand the differences between them. Provecho! (Bon appetit in Spanish.)
Here’s a small table to point out the similarities and differences in case you’re more visual:
| Barbacoa | Birria |
| The meat isn’t marinated. | The meat is marinated for 12 hours. |
| Cooked underground. | Simmered on the stovetop. |
| The meat is wrapped in maguey/agave leaves. | Can be spicy |
| Not spicy | Heavily spiced chile-based sauce |
| Similarities | |
| Fatty, shredded meat | |
| Made with lamb or goat’s meat | |
| Long cooking times | |
| They make consomé | |
| Can be made into tacos |
What is Birria?
This is a specialty dish from the state of Jalisco, a couple of hours north of Mexico City. You know, where mariachi and tequila are also from. Birria is typically made with lamb or goat’s meat that’s livened up with a combination of dried chiles and spices. Guajillo and ancho chiles are the foundation of any good birria sauce. Garlic, chopped onion, cumin, black pepper, and oregano also give this dish its signature spice and kick.
In terms of preparation, it is quite similar to barbacoa.
- The first step is to salt the meat.
- Then the chili sauce is spread all over it, letting it marinade for at least 12 hours.
- After this, a large pot is sealed from the outside using corn masa (tortilla dough) so that no steam can escape.
- It is then simmered over low heat for another 8-12 hours until the meat is fall-apart tender.
- Once ready, it’s placed on the grill and served with corn tortillas.
- If you sprinkle enough cheese and ladle some consomé (the leftover cooking juices) on top, you’ve got yourself some quesa-birrias!
If you’re not into quesa-birrias, then prepare yourself for some of the best tacos you’ve ever had! Add some cilantro, lime juice, and your favorite salsa. Avocado is nice too. Sweet, sweet birria! Biting into it is a juicy orchestra in your mouth.
Making it is quite the adventure so I recommend going out to get some instead of attempting this weekend-project of a recipe. However, with any luck, I might just get my friend to share her Instant Pot recipe for birria with me (and you) soon.
Before I move on to barbacoa, though, let me just say you should always proceed with caution when it comes to birria and its consomé. Although guajillo and ancho chiles aren’t spicy, everyone’s recipe is different and some vendors definitely pack enough chili to make you tear up for an hour or two.
What is Barbacoa?
Barbacoa is an age-old dish that’s extremely popular in Mexico City and its surrounding states. The states of Hidalgo, Estado de Mexico, Tlaxcala, and Puebla all dispute where the best barbacoa is made. This is something even my chef friend couldn’t answer for me, so I guess we’ll never know.
Few things say comfort food like barbacoa. It’s definitely not something you want to be making on lazy days, though. Once again, I recommend you go out and buy some. There’s also the fact that it’s incredibly difficult to make unless you’ve cracked the code for making it in an Instant Pot. Nevertheless, it’s traditionally cooked in a hole in the ground.
- Lamb or goat’s meat is first wrapped in agave/maguey leaves (the plant where tequila comes from). Then the hole where you’re cooking needs to be lined with agave/maguey leaves too.
- The meat is then placed in a large copper or clay recipient that is then placed inside the hole in the ground.
- Next, the hole is covered with more agave/maguey leaves, stones, and a layer of dirt. How does the cooking happen, then? A fire is started on top of the covered hole, transferring the heat slowly from the ground downwards. It creates a type of oven, trapping all the steam and juices from the cooking process inside. This results in extra tender meat.
- Finally, the barbacoa is left to cook for about 12 hours.
When it’s ready, the hole is cracked open and the pot is unwrapped. The meat is then either sold in large pieces by weight or in tacos. When you feel particularly hungry or are hosting a party, I recommend buying it by weight because it lets you control how much (or little) meat you want on each taco. Don’t worry about it being spicy. Barbacoa isn’t cooked with any chiles or sauces. It’s mostly just the meat’s cooking juices, fat, and black pepper and oregano that give this dish its main flavor.
Once it hits the tortilla, you can go crazy with the toppings. Salsa borracha (a salsa made with beer) is a favorite of mine. Green salsa also works great too! Add lime juice, cilantro, diced onion, and a sprinkle of salt. Add anything you want, just no sour cream for the love of God.
Chase it down with a bowl of consomé and you should be good to go for a large part of the day. It’s very fatty, though, so make sure you don’t have lots to do after breakfast or you’ll get the “mal del puerco.” That’s what Mexicans say to refer to feeling sleepy and sluggish after a meal.
Where to Eat them in Mexico City
It wasn’t all academic research that my friend helped me with. Like I said, she also took me on a restaurant and market tour so I could try some of the best barbacoa and birria in the city. They’re not all made equal…
No matter how tempted you are to stop at any food stall for some tacos, you shouldn’t. If possible, try to make time to visit some of the best spots in town. After all, if the cooking process is so long and complex, it’s only fair to assume you can’t expect anyone and everyone to be able to make them properly.
These were my favorite spots of barbacoa:
- Los 3 Reyes
- Barbacoa de Santiago
- La Oveja Negra
- El Mexiquense
For birria:
- Birria Michoacanisimo
- Birria Don Pepe
- Birria Santa Bárbara
- Birria La Huacana
Whichever you end up hitting up, just make sure to get there early. Birria and barbacoa are considered breakfast foods… With some places only serving them on weekends! Having said that, make sure to call in advance and make sure they’re open. No visit to Mexico is complete without getting a taste of authentic barbacoa and birria.
